Anubias Varieties Guide: Every Type Compared

Anubias is a genus of hardy, slow-growing aquatic plants that has been a staple of the freshwater aquarium hobby for decades. Prized for their thick, leathery leaves, tolerance of low light, and near-indestructible nature, Anubias species are the default recommendation for any aquarist who wants live plants without the complexity of high-tech setups. With numerous varieties ranging from tiny-leafed miniatures to broad, statement-making specimens, there is an Anubias for every tank size and aquascaping style. This guide compares the most popular varieties and covers the care essentials that apply to all of them.

Popular Varieties

Anubias barteri var. nana

The quintessential Anubias and by far the most popular variety in the hobby. Rounded, dark green leaves approximately 3-5 cm long on short stems. Compact growth makes it suitable for foreground and mid-ground placement. Widely available at virtually every aquarium shop in Singapore. This is the variety most people picture when they think of Anubias.

Anubias barteri var. nana ‘Petite’

A miniature cultivar of nana with leaves just 1-2 cm long. One of the smallest Anubias available, it is prized for nano tanks and detailed aquascaping work where scale matters. Growth is extremely slow, even by Anubias standards. Excellent for attaching to small stones and intricate driftwood pieces where regular nana would look oversized.

Anubias barteri var. barteri

The larger form of the species, with leaves 8-15 cm long on sturdy stems. A robust, imposing plant that works well as a mid-ground or background feature in tanks of 120 litres and above. The leaves are elongated and slightly pointed, giving a different visual effect from the rounder nana variety.

Anubias barteri ‘Coffeefolia’

Named for its resemblance to coffee plant leaves, this cultivar has deeply textured, ridged leaves with pronounced veining. New leaves often emerge with an attractive brownish-red tinge before maturing to dark green. The corrugated leaf surface adds visual interest and texture to any aquascape. Moderate in size, with leaves around 8-12 cm long.

Anubias barteri var. angustifolia (Narrow Leaf)

Features long, narrow leaves that create a very different silhouette from typical Anubias. Leaves can reach 10-15 cm in length but are only 2-3 cm wide. Useful for adding a grass-like element to the mid-ground without the care demands of actual aquatic grasses.

Anubias hastifolia

One of the largest Anubias, with arrow-shaped leaves that can reach 20-30 cm in length. Strictly a background plant for large tanks. The dramatic leaf shape makes it a statement piece, though its size limits its use to tanks of 200 litres or more.

Anubias barteri var. nana ‘Golden’

A cultivar that produces light green to golden-yellow leaves, providing a colour contrast against darker plants. The golden colouration is most pronounced under moderate lighting. Less commonly stocked but occasionally available from specialist shops in Singapore.

Anubias barteri var. nana ‘Snow White’

A rare and highly sought-after cultivar with white or cream-coloured leaves. New leaves emerge white and may develop some green as they age. Extremely slow-growing and considerably more expensive than other varieties. A collector’s plant that commands attention in any tank it appears in.

Variety Comparison Table

Care Requirements

All Anubias varieties share essentially the same care requirements, which is part of what makes them so popular. They are among the easiest aquarium plants to maintain.

The single most important care rule for all Anubias is this: do not bury the rhizome. The thick, horizontal stem from which leaves and roots emerge must remain exposed to water flow. Roots can grow into the substrate without issue, but the rhizome itself must sit above or on top of the substrate surface. Burying it leads to rot and eventual death.

In Singapore, Anubias does particularly well because our PUB tap water has a suitable pH and hardness, and our ambient temperatures fall within the plant’s preferred range. No heater, no chiller, no CO2, no intense lighting: Anubias grows reliably with the most basic setup imaginable.

Attaching to Hardscape

Anubias should be attached to driftwood, rocks or other hardscape elements. The three main methods are:

• Superglue (cyanoacrylate gel): Apply a line of gel superglue to the hardscape, press the rhizome onto the glue, and hold firmly for ten to fifteen seconds. The fastest and most reliable method. Gel type stays in place better than liquid.
• Thread or fishing line: Wrap cotton thread around the plant and hardscape to hold it in position. Cotton dissolves naturally after a few weeks once the roots have gripped the surface. Fishing line is permanent but becomes hidden by root growth.
• Wedging into crevices: Tuck the rhizome into natural gaps in the hardscape. Simple and effective for irregularly shaped driftwood.

For larger varieties like barteri and hastifolia, superglue combined with thread provides the most secure hold, as the weight of the plant can pull it free from glue alone before the roots establish.

The Algae-on-Leaves Problem

The most common frustration with Anubias is algae growing on the leaves. Because Anubias leaves are long-lived (individual leaves can persist for months), they become prime real estate for algae colonisation. Green spot algae and black beard algae are the most frequent offenders.

Prevention strategies:

• Moderate your lighting: Anubias does not need or want bright light. Keep the plant in shaded areas of the tank, or reduce your overall lighting intensity and duration. Six to eight hours of moderate light is ample.
• Maintain good water flow: Stagnant water around Anubias leaves encourages algae. Ensure your filter output provides gentle circulation across the leaves.
• Algae-eating crew: Nerite snails, Otocinclus catfish and Amano shrimp are effective at keeping Anubias leaves clean. In a tank with a healthy clean-up crew, algae on Anubias is rarely a significant problem.
• Balanced nutrients: Both excess nutrients (overfeeding, overfertilising) and nutrient deficiencies can contribute to algae growth. Maintain a balanced fertilisation routine and perform regular water changes.

Treatment: For leaves already covered in algae, you can gently scrub them with a soft toothbrush during water changes. For black beard algae, spot-treating with liquid carbon (applied directly with a syringe) is effective. Severely affected leaves can be trimmed away; the plant will produce new ones over time.

Propagation

Anubias propagation is straightforward. As the rhizome grows, it extends horizontally and produces new leaves along its length. To propagate:

1. Wait until the rhizome has grown long enough that it can be divided into sections, each with at least three to four leaves and some roots.
2. Use a sharp blade to cut through the rhizome cleanly.
3. Attach each division to a new piece of hardscape.

Growth resumes after a brief adjustment period. Because Anubias grows slowly, building up a substantial collection through division takes patience. A single nana plant might produce one or two viable divisions per year.

Anubias also occasionally produces side shoots, small plantlets that branch off from the main rhizome. These can be separated once they have developed their own leaves and roots.

Placement Tips for Aquascaping

Strategic placement of different Anubias varieties can add depth and interest to an aquascape:

• Nana Petite on foreground stones: Attach tiny nana petite clumps to small stones scattered in the foreground for a natural, rock-garden effect. Their miniature scale works beautifully alongside carpeting plants like Monte Carlo.
• Regular nana on driftwood joints: Place nana at the intersections and forks of driftwood branches, where plants would naturally accumulate in a stream.
• Coffeefolia as a textural accent: The ridged leaves of coffeefolia provide textural contrast against smooth-leafed plants. Position in the mid-ground where the leaf detail can be appreciated.
• Barteri and hastifolia as background anchors: Larger varieties create a lush, tropical backdrop behind detailed foreground plantings.
• Mixed Anubias rockwork: Attach several different varieties to a single large rock or driftwood piece for a diverse, natural-looking display.

Avoid placing Anubias directly under the brightest part of your light fixture. The shaded areas beside driftwood, under overhangs, and along the lower portions of the hardscape are ideal locations that reduce algae risk while still providing enough light for healthy growth.

Whether you are starting your first planted tank or designing an elaborate aquascape, Anubias belongs in your plant selection. Visit our shop for a range of Anubias varieties, or contact Gensou for professional aquarium maintenance and planting services in Singapore.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can Anubias grow fully submerged?

Yes, Anubias grows perfectly well fully submerged and is one of the most reliable underwater plants available. It can also grow emersed (with leaves above water) in paludariums and terrariums. Many Anubias sold in Singapore shops are grown emersed and will transition to submerged growth after a brief adjustment period during which a few older leaves may yellow and be replaced.

Why are the leaves on my Anubias turning yellow?

Yellowing leaves on Anubias can indicate several things. If only the oldest leaves are yellowing, this is normal leaf turnover and nothing to worry about. If multiple leaves yellow simultaneously, check for nutrient deficiency (particularly iron and potassium), excessive light exposure, or a buried rhizome causing rot. Ensure the rhizome is exposed and consider adding a basic liquid fertiliser to your routine.

Do Anubias need fertiliser?

Anubias can survive without added fertiliser in most established tanks, drawing what it needs from fish waste and the water column. However, a basic liquid fertiliser dosed once or twice weekly promotes healthier, greener leaves and marginally faster growth. Root tabs are unnecessary since Anubias is not planted in substrate, but the plant’s roots will absorb nutrients from the water column.

Which Anubias variety is best for nano tanks?

Anubias barteri var. nana ‘Petite’ is the best choice for nano tanks under 30 litres. Its tiny leaves (1-2 cm) remain proportionate to a small tank’s scale, whereas regular nana can quickly look oversized. For slightly larger nano tanks (30-60 litres), regular nana works well and is more affordable. Both varieties are readily available in Singapore.

Related Reading

• Amazon Sword Care Guide: The Classic Centrepiece Plant
• Anubias Barteri Round Leaf Care Guide: Broad Circular Foliage
• Anubias Barteri var. Glabra Care Guide: Narrow Lance-Shaped Leaves
• How to Propagate Anubias Nana Petite: Rhizome Division Guide
• Anubias Coffeefolia Care Guide: Textured Leaves Like Coffee