Eagle Eye Zoanthid Care Guide: High-Demand Morph
Eagle Eyes earned their collector status because the morph genuinely looks like a bird of prey’s eye — a jet-black pupil ringed by a bright green disc, sometimes wrapped in a red or orange skirt — and at $40 to $120 per polyp in Singapore they remain one of the most asked-about zoas at every reef shop counter. This eagle eye zoanthid care guide from Gensou Aquascaping at 5 Everton Park distils the placement, lighting and tank-mate decisions that have kept our display colonies spreading for three years, and covers the common mistakes that cause Singapore reefers to lose $300 frags within six weeks.
Identifying a Genuine Eagle Eye
Eagle Eyes show:
- A solid black centre pupil at the mouth, 2 to 3 mm in diameter
- A bright fluorescent green disc radiating outward
- A red, orange or purple skirt depending on sub-morph
- Polyp size of 8 to 12 mm when fully open
Red Eagle Eye is the classic; Orange, Purple and Black-Eyed Peas (darker green body) all count as sub-morphs with distinct lineages. Generic “green zoa with dark centre” frags are often Radioactive Dragon Eyes or other cheaper morphs. Compare against the broader zoanthid care reference.
Lighting Requirements
Eagle Eyes show brightest green under moderate to moderate-high light in the 100 to 180 PAR range, heavy on 420 to 460 nm blues. Under insufficient light the green mutes and the skirt darkens; under excessive light the pupil can bleach and the polyp closes up for days. AI Hydra 32HD, Radion XR15, and Kessil A360X all hold colour at 40 to 55 percent blue output over typical HDB rockwork depth. The reef LED comparison covers fixture choices.
Flow Preference
Eagle Eyes prefer slightly stronger flow than Sunny D or other softer zoa morphs — 20 to 30x turnover per hour, with indirect stream contact rather than direct blast. In a 50 to 100 litre nano reef, a Tunze 6015 or MP10 on a random pulse mode gives the polyps the tentacle movement they respond to. Too little flow allows detritus to settle on the polyps and causes them to stay closed.
Placement in the Rockwork
Mid-rock placement suits Eagle Eyes in most nano systems. Give 5 to 8 cm clearance from aggressive tank mates — they compete with Palythoa and some larger zoa morphs, but typically yield to Utter Chaos and some chalice corals. Epoxy the frag plug firmly; Eagle Eyes spread outward and upward over time, and a loose plug collapses once the colony reaches 20-plus polyps.
Water Parameters
Run nitrate at 3 to 10 ppm, phosphate at 0.04 to 0.12 ppm, alkalinity at 8 to 9 dKH, calcium at 420 to 440 ppm, magnesium at 1350 to 1450 ppm, and temperature at 25 to 26 degrees. Eagle Eyes particularly dislike zero-nutrient systems — pure ULNS tanks see the green fade within four to six weeks. Our two-part dosing guide covers the alkalinity curve that keeps polyps expanding.
Feeding and Growth Rate
Target-feed Reef Roids, Coral Frenzy or Polyp Lab Reef Roids once a week at lights-on-dim transition. Use a pipette, drip directly onto individual polyps, and observe tentacle closure. A 3-polyp frag typically grows to 10 polyps in four to six months and 30 polyps by month twelve in a well-run system. Expect faster growth when target feeding weekly rather than relying on dissolved nutrients alone.
Dipping and Pest Control
Eagle Eyes are a common carrier of zoanthid-eating nudibranchs and zoa pox. Always dip before adding to display using the full dipping protocol, inspect the frag plug for nudibranch eggs (small white jelly blobs) under magnification, and quarantine in a separate tank for two to three weeks. Zoa pox appears as raised white bumps; treat with Furan-2 at 50 mg per 40 litres in isolation.
Compatibility
Eagle Eyes coexist well with most soft corals, frogspawn and hammers, and well-spaced chalices. They compete with nearby Palythoa and other zoa morphs — separate by at least 10 cm. Keep away from aggressive LPS such as Euphyllia ancora long sweeper tentacles. Avoid tangs and angelfish species known to nip zoas; our beginner marine fish list covers reef-safe picks.
Singapore Reef Context
Ambient room temperatures of 29 to 31 degrees in HDB flats mean a chiller is non-negotiable for Eagle Eye longevity; the morph browns visibly above 27 degrees and can melt above 28. Run a reliable controller (Apex or similar) with temperature probes and alerts. Power-cut planning matters — a six-hour brownout during monsoon can end a $500 colony. Review the chiller selection guide.
Palytoxin Precaution
Never boil rock with Eagle Eye tissue attached. Wear gloves and eye protection when fragging. Palytoxin exposure has sent Singapore reefers to emergency rooms; the toxin is dangerous to handle casually regardless of how many YouTube videos make it look easy.
Pricing and Sourcing
Genuine Red Eagle Eye frags trade at $60 to $180 per polyp at Reef Depot, N30 Tank and specialist reef sellers. Single polyps from Carousell import sellers range $40 to $90, with higher risk of misidentification or pest contamination. Full colonies of 30-plus polyps from local breeders reach $1,200 to $2,500. Lineage and photography quality drive the premium.
Related Reading
emilynakatani
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